Visiting a print shop, Rosslyn Chapel and The Kelpies

After a lovely chat with our B&B hosts we headed to Innerleithen to check out Robert Smail's Printing Works.  However, when we got there we discovered there was a delay in the opening time due to a staffing issue.  We stuck around even though our schedule was thrown off a bit.  We were rewarded with an informative tour of the print shop.  The guide was fun and very knowledgeable.  He creates the items you see in the gift shop along with posters and such seen around the buildings.  We were even given the chance to set type and create a bookmark of our own.  While this gent was no A. Malcom,  I really enjoyed this site.

Unfortunately our delay at the print shop caused us to arrive at Rosslyn Chapel later than we had planned on.  Unlike many churches/cathedrals/etc. that are free to enter, Rosslyn Chapel does have an admission fee.  This chapel is still a active place of worship so check your schedule ahead of time to make sure you're not arriving during a service.  We arrived at 4 p.m. and went straight inside to marvel at the details that have made the chapel famous.  Seeing the interior in person is so different from travel shows or documentaries about the chapel and it's sometimes hard to decide exactly where to look next.  There are guide cards that point out features as you walk around.  It's a fairly small church and can get crowded so being patient is a must.  This is the only place we felt rushed during our entire trip!  The chapel closes at 5 but the staff was rushing us out before 4:45.  We had already finished the interior but I never made it completely around the outside before the staff made us return to the visitors center.  An hour would have been the perfect amount of time to spend here.  

After leaving Rosslyn Chapel we checked into our hotel and dropped off our luggage.  There is nothing remarkable about the hotel as it was just a chain but it was clean and the bed was comfortable.  We drove from there to see the Kelpies.  These are the largest equine sculptures in the world and they are beautiful.  We went after all the vendors and the visitor center had closed for the day but before the sculptures were lit for the night.  The crowds were lighter at this time of day and that made parking easier.  

On our way back to the car we spotted this swan family in the canal.  They were so sweet!  We watched them for a bit and then called it a day.  This was a heavy driving day for us but we still managed to get in all the things my husband had planned and we enjoyed every site we visited.  

Preston Mill and Beyond

We were up early to catch a bus to the airport so we could pick up our rental car and head into the Scottish countryside.  We opted for a rental car to allow us the most flexibility with our schedule and getting around wasn't difficult at all.  We appreciated being able to travel at our own pace and not rely on bus or trains to get us around after we left Edinburgh. 

Our first stop was to be Preston Mill, which is a stop that Outlander fans will recognize as the place where Jamie Fraser loses his shirt while attempting to repair the water wheel near Lallybroch as some British soldiers approach.  We were a bit early though and saw signs for Hailes Castle and decided to see what was there.  It was several miles away and fairly easy to get to. 

Hailes Castle is a free site managed by Historic Scotland.  These charming castle ruins are located along the River Tyne and have a lot of signs to tell you about the site as well as a brief history.  We spent about 30 minutes here, which is all you need, and I felt it was a perfect place to start our travels around the countryside.  Since this isn't a major site we didn't see anyone else until we were walking back to the car so I think it would have been a lovely place for a picnic style lunch, especially on a lovely summer day.

Preston Mill is managed by the National Trust for Scotland and does charge an admission fee.  Since my husband purchased an annual membership for the National Trust we just presented our cards at the desk.  He ordered this ahead of time and had the membership cards mailed to our house in the USA.  After 3 weeks in Scotland, we more than covered the cost of the membership so it ended up being a great deal for us.  It also meant that we didn't need to carry a large amount of money to pay at every site or run our credit cards for admission.  While this isn't an ideal option for everyone, especially if you are limited in time or location, it was totally worth it for us.  

 

The mill was a working mill until the 1950's and they offer a tour if your interested in the learning all the details of how the mill worked.  It was interesting but the guide gave a bit more information than the average tourist wants to know so it was pretty long.  We spoke at length with the gentleman who was on staff that day about the Outlander crew using the location for filming.  He had so much fun behind the scenes stuff to share about how they transformed the mill and working with the crew that getting his point of view on the filming added so much to the experience for me.  Preston Mill is a must see for all Outlander fans and if you skip the tour of the mill it is a pretty quick stop.  I enjoyed every minute we spent here.

After we left the mill in the early afternoon we headed to Soutra Aisle which is the site of an old hospital built by the Augustinians around 1160.  There is a bit of history here and it's fascinating.  It used to be an important site along one of Scotland's busiest roads at the time.  The hospital remained in use for 300 years before a scandal forced the closure of the site.  Click the link above to learn more.  

Next we drove to Dryburgh Abbey  which is operated by Historic Scotland, so there is an admission fee.  This was such a beautiful place and I loved our time here.  While much of the abbey is in ruins the atmosphere was so calm and peaceful.  Sites like this are some of my favorites to visit.  Sir Walter Scott's tomb is located on the grounds here and you'll find it as you wander around.  

We had a bed and breakfast in Melrose booked for the night and as we made towards there we stopped quickly at Scott's View.  It's a pretty overlook of the valley and was one of Sir Walter Scott's favorite views.  I can easily see why.

Melrose Abbey is also operated by Historic Scotland (see how quickly admission fees can add up) and was our last stop for the day.  There is so much history in these ruins and it's always fun to explore.  It is believed that Robert the Bruce's heart is buried here.  The grounds are expertly maintained and the ruins are easy to navigate.  We were even able to climb up a tower and get a great view of the grounds and hills surrounding the town of Melrose.  Be sure to check out the unique carvings along the top.  

We stayed at The Barn at the Coach House bed and breakfast and it was absolutely wonderful.  The owners, Claire and Donald, have thought about everything to make their guests feel comfortable and at home.  I highly recommend a stay here if you are in the area.  The rooms are well appointed and very clean and breakfast the next day was delicious.  They've earned every single stellar review they have received.

Edinburgh Part 2

I had plenty to say so I thought I should break it up and post my days separately so the posts were not terribly long.  On our second day we were up early and attempted to catch a bus from Princes' Street to the Palace of Holyroodhouse but somehow managed to mess that up so we walked.  It was a bit of a stroll but I didn't mind as the weather was lovely and it's fun to see neighborhoods on foot. 

We first went into the Parliament building but didn't plan to well and missed the tour we wanted to take.  They run them frequently but we didn't want to wait so we took a quick walk around the main floor and learned a bit about how the Scottish government works.   So if your interested in the tour make sure you check the site for times.

The Palace of Holyroodhouse is near the Parliament and at the end of the Royal Mile.    I was so excited to visit here and it's obviously very popular.  The line for tickets was long but it moved fairly quickly and we purchased the Royal Visit tickets so we got a guided garden tour, entrance to the Queen's Gallery, and entrance to the palace itself which is self guided but has an audio guide available for the rooms open to the public.  I loved the garden tour as we were able to go off the path and deep into the gardens with our guide.

The views of the back of the palace are also better from the garden tour as the paths are pretty close to the building so if getting nice photos are important I would keep that in mind when deciding what ticket to purchase.  

The self guided tour of the interior was pretty informative and if you're obsessed, like me, with the drama of the Scottish/British monarchies you'll enjoy it.  I really enjoy seeing the places that I've only read about before come to life when I get to visit historical sites like this.  I loved it and tried to picture Mary, Queen of Scots wandering through the palace or Jamie Fraser meeting Bonnie Prince Charlie here.  It is such a fun way to meld real history and fiction together.  No photos are allowed inside so I only have exterior shots. 

The palace took a couple of hours so we had a quick lunch at Oink which was a good place for a fast but delicious sandwich.  We met another American couple on the garden tour and then we saw them at Oink and shared a table and some travel stories before heading out.  

As we walked up the hill we found Bakehouse Close which stands in for Carfax Close in Season 3 of Outlander.  This is where they filmed the exterior of Jamie's print shop.  And just up the street is The World's End pub, which is famous enough on it's own but Outlander fans know that Jamie is a frequent visitor here during his time in Edinburgh.  

You can find JK Rowling's handprints just off the Royal Mile in front of the Edinburgh City Chambers building.  This is a quick and easy to find stop for Harry Potter fans.  We also checked out Victoria Street which JK Rowling has said was her inspiration for Diagon Alley.  It's a short street but it is a must for fans to visit.  

At the end of the day we took The Real Mary King's Close Tour and that was really interesting and another thing I totally recommend.  You not only learn more about Edinburgh's past but also see how people lived in the Old Town.  Such a contrast to the Georgian House and the Palace of Holyroodhouse.  Unfortunately they don't allow photos on the tour.  They are located right across the street from St. Giles Cathedral on the Royal Mile.  

While we waited for our tour time we went into St. Giles Cathedral.  It was lovely on the inside but I didn't purchase a photo pass from the staff so I was well behaved and didn't take any photos of the interior.  We really enjoy going into cathedrals and churches as they are full of history and some impressive art.  Most are free but usually have a receptacle for donations if you feel so inclined.  

There are a couple of things worth noting that I haven't mentioned yet.  First, we had exceptional weather a majority of the 3 weeks we were there.  Scotland had a record setting summer and we benefited from it.  It was really lovely.  Second, since it was just my husband and me, we kept a pretty quick pace and while some people criticized just how much we had planned we only felt rushed at one site on our trip but we still managed to see what we came for.  Most of the sites maintain a 10-5 operating schedule during the summer so we were up fairly early most days but had plenty of time to eat a nice dinner, relax, video chat with our girls back home, and went to bed at a decent time.  So, this style of traveling worked well for us on this trip.

Thanks for checking in today.  The next part of the trip will take us out of the city and I look forward to sharing those stories with you!  I hope you'll check back.  

Edinburgh Part 1

We took the train from Glasgow to Edinburgh early in the morning.  It was a short 1 hour ride and we got off at the main station in Edinburgh.  The train offered free WiFi which was nice since we didn't add an international plan to our cell phones before we left so the hour went by quickly.  Once we got off the train and made our way to the street I was incredibly happy that our suitcases had wheels.  We had a bit of a walk to our hotel but it wasn't incredibly long.  Our hotel was located on the New Town side of the city and we were once again able to drop off our suitcases since it was too early to check in.

Right around the corner from our hotel was The Georgian House and it is operated by the National Trust for Scotland.  I didn't get any photos inside and I'm not sure why as according to the website you can take photos.  I was certain I had but after reviewing my phone and Canon files I cannot find any.  I do recommend you visit here, especially if you love seeing how the upper crust lived.  It's so different from how people were living in the Old Town side of Edinburgh at that time and I think it's a great reminder on how class struggles have always been a part of history.  It is a self guided site with helpful staff around to answer any questions you may have so you can spend as little or as much time as you'd like exploring this restored town house.

After we left there we strolled through Princes Street Gardens as we headed towards Old Town.  The views of the castle were gorgeous from here and even if you're not staying in New Town, you should check it out. 

After we crossed into Old Town and walked up a lot of hills we came across the Elephant House Cafe and I just had to take a photo.  Harry Potter fans will know this as the cafe where J.K. Rowling spent some time writing the beloved stories.  We were in a hurry so we didn't pop in but I wanted to.  Maybe next time we're in Edinburgh.  

We continued our walk to the National Museum of Scotland where admission is free but even if they charged admission I would highly recommend you schedule several hours and visit this museum.  It's huge!  Make sure you pick up a map of the building on your way in because you'll need it to navigate through.  We decided to focus mostly on the Scottish History and Archaeology Galleries as we knew our time was limited.  One of the coolest things about the museum is that you can climb up to the roof and get some stunning views of the city, especially on a clear day.  It was worth all the stairs it took to get there.  

We rushed back across town to visit the Scottish National Portrait Gallery  (which also has free admission) and made it with about an hour to spend inside.  This museum has a wonderful collection of portraits of some of Scotland's most influential citizens from it's past.  We spent a bit of time looking at a portrait of Bonnie Prince Charlie and one of the staff members started talking to us about it and noted some other Jacobite paintings in the same room.  She was knowledgeable on the subjects in the paintings and she shared some juicy stories about them.  We talked a bit about Outlander, too!  One of my most favorite parts of the museum was the ceiling in the hall.  This is a great reminder to always look up, even if you are in a hurry.  

Not too bad for our first day in Edinburgh.  I wish I had more photos to share but I did link all the sites we visited so you can check them out if you want to learn more about them.